When referring to small scale, I’m talking about 15-30 heads of chicks.

Acquiring the chicks/chickens:

Chicks can be purchased from a local AgriVet supply or in a farm.

What they need:

Assuming that you got your chicks from a local AgriVet supply, what do you intend to do with what you bought?

1. Make a place. A large box would be a good thing. It has a good insulating capabality. Make sure it’s a large box since you’ll be keeping the chicks in there for 2 weeks. Provide good flooring for the box. You can use shredded newspapers or other papers, wood shavings is great not saw dust. For shredded papers, make sure to replace it everyday or every hour, or you can just dump fresh shredded papers to the box that way chicken dung is covered. Same with wood shavings, though you can change it 3x a week of daily if you like.

2. Give them warmth. A hanging light bulb (100 Watt) will supply enough heat for the entire flock. At least in its first few weeks.  You can as well use the oven to keep them warm set at the optimum temperature which is about 90-95°F or 36-37°F. Make sure to lower this temperature every week at a rate of 5°F until room temperature is achieved and that’s when you remove the lighting.

If the chicks cuddle together near the heat source, then they feel cold. If they stay far away from the heat source, then they are hot. A conducive temperature lets them occupy the whole area.

3. Provide water. As with animals and even humans, water is very important. Give them fresh water 2-3 times a day (change water). An electrolyte and vitamin soluble powder mixed with the water may be given to enhance feeding.

4. Feed. Feed the chicks  with commercial feeds. Some are usually treated with antibiotics and others are plain. Read the labels. Feed them ad libitum or as much as they like, usually with a chick booster for 3 weeks old or under. For 4-week old chicks, you can change to Chick Starter. And for 12-week old or older use Finisher.

5. Handle with care. Do not feed you chicks 2 hours after it is brought home. Hold them with both your hands (palm), one on top and the other below the abdomen to make sure they don’t scramble and get injured. Segregate or separate any chick that shows disease, diarrhea or flu. Protect from predators, rats, dogs, larger chickens, cats and others. Do not pick the chicks up so much, much more drop them.

If you are in a farm or a house with large grassland area, you can have your chickens free-ranged. If they are free-range, then feeds can be given at a lower quantity since they feed on other sources such as grasses, insects and other food  scraps.

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Note: More pics and ideas coming soon.

First and Foremost: Ideas and General Info

According to this site,  Kabir chickens originated from the Middle East – specifically from Iran. Kabir in Arabic means “big” or “large”.

Good Things About Kabir

1.  It’s size. It is a fact that these chickens can weigh a whooping 5-6 kilos when fully grown/matured, which is said to be around 5 months.

2. Resistance to disease and heat. Most probably these chickens where also bred as free range in the Middle East since they are much like the native chickens here in the Philippines. They are resistant to a lot of diseases and can tolerate hot weather conditions.

3. Same or better meat quality. Because of the shear size of the chicken, it is considered better in yield than the native chicken. They have darker meat than the native chicken but taste almost the same.

4. Great for cross-breeding. A cross bred native and Kabir chicken will result to a larger size chicken since the Kabir has stronger genetic quality which is maintained and can be seen in the chicks or offspring.

5. Low cost and maintenance. The Kabir chicken can be free ranged, meaning they can thrive on large area with grasses and insects as their meals. Although the chicken is a beast when it comes to eating, they are not choosy. They will feed on almost anything from food scraps, insects, grasses and many others.

6. Egg is large and low in cholesterol.

Reproduction

1. One male rooster can be mated to several hens – up to 20, though I do not personally recommend this much because it lessen the quality gene pool for the offspring.

2. Hens lay egg in about 6 months but brooding activity is expected on the 3rd time or a year old hen. Brooding should be encouraged.

3. Egg production is variable on several conditions: Weather/climate, age of chickens, shelter and feeds.

Let’s Start With Small Scale: Acquiring the Chicks/Chickens

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Note: Pictures of my young ones soon.